How to M1L and M1Lp: Make One Left Knitting Increase tutorial (with videos!)

Looking for a clean, nearly invisible increase in your knitting? Learning how to M1L is a great place to start. M1L is the standard knitting abbreviation for Make One Left, and it’s one of those knitted increases that can be clean and crisp once you get the hang of it.

Because the lifted strand is twisted as you knit into it, M1L creates a clean increase that is hardly noticeable when worked well.

M1L leans towards the left, which makes it especially useful when you want shaping to move neatly in a specific direction. The purl-side version is called M1Lp, which means Make One Left Purlwise, and this increase also leans to the left when looked at from the knit side of your work.

It's right-leaning sister increase, the M1R is also a must-know technique! Learn all about it here.

Keep reading and I’ll walk you through:

• When to use M1L(p) in knitting

• How to Make One Left in Knitting – Step by Step

• How to Work M1Lp (Make 1 Left Purl) – Step by Step

• An easy Way to Remember M1L vs. M1R

• Common mistakes & fixes when working M1L

When to use M1L(p) in knitting

M1L and M1Lp are great for when you want to add a subtle and clean stitch without creating an obvious bump or hole.

Most commonly used for the fact it's basically invisible, the M1L(p) is distinctly different from other increases. For example, the KFB leaves a little bar, and a yarn over intentionally creates a hole in decorative and lace knitting.

I love M1L for all types shaping because it has such a beautiful finish, and when worked in succession can lead to stunning details on your knit like the photo below!

Here is the Sweater no. 23, by My Favourite Things, a perfect example of decorative shoulder shaping, which is created by working make 1 left increases along the same column of stitches over a series of rows.

You’ll often see M1L used in:

• sweater shaping

• raglan increases

• underarm shaping

• sleeve increases when worked from the cuff upwards

• neckline shaping

• fitted tops, or tops with a high degree of negative ease

It can feel slightly fiddly at first, especially because you’re working into a strand that wasn’t originally a stitch. But once your hands understand the movement, it becomes much easier.

If you're looking for more information about increases in general, check out my How to Increase in Knitting: A Must-Read Beginner Knitters Guide.

How to Make One Left in Knitting – Step by Step

Use M1L when your pattern asks you to make one left on the knit side of your work.

1. Knit to the point where your pattern tells you to increase.

2. Before knitting the next stitch on the left-hand needle, identify the horizontal bar of yarn that stretches between the stitch on your right needle and the stitch on your left.

3. Insert your left-hand needle under this bar from front to back.

4. The lifted strand will now sit on your left needle.

5. Knit into the back leg of the lifted strand.

6. Continue knitting as normal.

You have now made one additional stitch, and your increase will lean slightly towards the left.

Looking for an easy-to-knit pattern, packed full of tutorial videos, to help you get the hang of M1L/M1R? The free pattern for my Blueberry Bandana is the perfect knit!

Click here to find it!

How to Work M1Lp (Make 1 Left Purl) –

Step by Step

M1Lp is the purl-side version of M1L, and it will lean to the left on the knit side of your work.

Patterns use it to make one left while purling.

1. Purl to the point where your pattern tells you to increase.

2. Find the horizontal bar of yarn between the stitch on your right needle and the stitch on your left needle.

3. Insert your left-hand needle under this bar from front to back.

4. The lifted strand should now sit on your left needle.

5. Put your right hand needle into the back leg of the lifted strand purl-wise.

   1. This is the tricky part... My recommendation is to hold the left needle vertically so you can see the picked up strand at the front crossed over. (Shown in step 3 below)

   2. You will then push the right hand needle through the back leg of the strand (the part of the strand you now see on the right side) from back to front as if to purl, as shown in step 4 below.

      

6. Wrap the yarn anti-clockwise, as if to purl, and slip the stitch off the left-hand needle.

7. Continue purling as normal.

M1Lp can feel a little awkward at first because purling into the back of the strand is not the most natural movement. Go slowly and don’t worry if it feels fiddly the first few times.

An easy Way to Remember M1L vs. M1R

Need a hand remembering which way to work M1L?

For M1L, you pick up the bar from front to back, then work into the back leg.

Memorise this...

"Back" has 4 letters, just like "left". M1L is picked up front to back. Then, worked into the back of the lifted strand of yarn.

Likewise, "right" has 5 letters, just like "front". M1R is picked up back to front. Then, worked into the front of the lifted strand of yarn.

It’s a slightly silly trick, but honestly, those are usually the ones that stick!

Common Mistakes & fixes When working M1L

Why Does My M1L Leave a Hole?

If your M1L leaves a hole, it usually means the lifted strand wasn’t twisted closed.

For M1L, make sure you knit into the back leg of the lifted strand. This twists the strand and ensures you close the gap.

If you knit into the front instead, you’ll often create a little eyelet like shown in the picture. Pretty in lace, not ideal when you wanted invisible/neat shaping.

Why Is My M1L So Tight?

M1L can feel tight because you’re lifting a strand from between two stitches and turning it into a new stitch.

That strand has less room than a normal stitch, so a little resistance is normal.

If it feels impossible to work into, try not to pull the stitches on either side too tightly before making the increase. Another note: M1L and M1R can feel tight if they’re worked on several consecutive rows, which is why you’ll usually find these increases worked every other row, or every third row.

Why Doesn’t My M1L Look Invisible?

M1L is subtle, but it may still be visible if your yarn is very smooth, your tension changes around the increase, or the stitch is worked too loosely.

The best fix is consistency. Try to keep the stitches on either side of the increase even, and avoid pulling the working yarn too tightly after making the new stitch.

Like all knitting techniques, M1L gets neater with practice.

Why Does M1Lp Feel So Awkward?

Because it is a bit awkward (sorry to be the bearer of bad news!)

Purling into the back leg of the lifted strand is not something most beginners do often, so M1Lp can feel weird and even wrong at first.

Use a smooth, light-coloured yarn while practising so you can clearly see the strand of yarn that you are working with. Once you’ve worked it a few times, your hands will start to remember the movement.

One extra tip: Super pointy needles can help with this increase. So, if you know you'll be working this stitch in a pattern, pull out your pointiest pair of needles!

Can I Use Another Increase Instead of M1L?

Sometimes, but I wouldn’t automatically swap it. If you really want to swap it out, use the left lifted increase, but that increase isn't necessarily any easier to work.

M1L is used when the designer wants a clean, left-leaning increase. If you replace it with a yarn over, you’ll create a hole. If you replace it with KFB, you’ll create a more visible bar.

That doesn’t mean those increases are wrong, but they do create a different look and potentially 'lean' in a different direction to the intended design. You risk your finished object looking a bit off if you switch out techniques.

If your pattern specifically asks for M1L or M1Lp, I’d follow the pattern unless you have a good reason to change it.

What to Read Next:

How to Start Knitting for Total Beginners: The Ultimate Guide

How to Decrease in Knitting: An Essential Beginner’s Guide

How to Knit A Left Lifted Increase with Video Tutorial

How to Knit A Right Lifted Increase with Video Tutorial